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>Home >>Tools & Info >>Northwest >>Queen Charlotte Islands

 
Spotlight on...
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS

 

Beachcombing

 

Area Data:  The Queen Charlotte Islands are located in north-western British Columbia, about 130 kilometres from the mainland. Commonly referred to as Canada’s Galapagos, the Queen Charlottes consist of two large main islands, Graham Island to the North, and Moresby Island to the South and over 1500 surrounding smaller islands. The total land area of the Queen Charlotte Islands is approximately 3,840 square miles; 156 miles (250 km) from north to south.

Climate is mild for most of the year, due to the Pacific Ocean’s currents. The average annual temperature is about 8 degrees Celsius (46 F), and, surprisingly, winter temperatures are actually higher than that of inland B.C.  Before bringing your shorts in February, though, keep in mind that cool misty weather can occur without much notice, and you should be prepared for that.

This is a rainforest, so expect some rain- but not as much as you might think. The Queen Charlotte Islands gets the same annual rainfall as Vancouver.

Access:  Most access these islands by BC Ferries, which depart from Prince Rupert and land at Skidegate. This trip lasts approximately six hours or is an overnight trip. Air service is also available with daily flights on Air Canada to Sandspit (on Moresby Island) from Vancouver. There is also air service from Vancouver to Masset with Pacific Coastal Airlines. North Pacific Seaplanes offers air service from Prince Rupert to Masset.

Once on the island, rental cars are available in the major centers, although keep in mind that the paved highway runs from Sandspit on Moresby Island to Masset and Old Masset at the northern end of Graham, running through the major centers. Moresby Island only has 35 minutes of paved road. There are quite a few gravel roads, which are just as good as pavement. However, many are still active logging roads, so check with the local visitors’ center to make sure the roads are not being used.

Major Cities:  With a population of only 6,000, the Queen Charlotte Islands remain in its unspoiled, natural state. This is reflective in the resource-based economy of the Islands, with logging, commercial fishing, mining, and tourism forming its backbone. Major centers on the Islands include:

B.C. Ferry Service

Masset:  The northernmost community. You will find the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary, and the Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum. Also located here is the largest log barge in the world, Haida Monarch, which can transport 15,000 tons of logs , the equivalent of 400

logging trucks! This is the entrance to Naikoon Provincial Park, home to provincial camping sites, Rose Spit’s Ecological Reserve, and Niho Land & Cattle Company’s Dixon Estates.

The Village of Queen Charlotte:   The first registered town site on the Islands, and the newest incorporated city in British Columbia. Queen Charlotte is the administrative centre, and you will find all services located here, including provincial and federal government offices, the RCMP station, hospital, banking, groceries, and fishing and hunting licenses. You can also make arrangements to visit Gwaii Haanas Federal Park at the Visitor Information Center here. View the heritage buildings lining the main street, and shop in the speciality stores.

Sandspit:   The only formal settlement on Moresby Island, and is the entranceway to Gwaii Haanas Federal Park. The original airport to the Queen Charlottes is located here, and a 18 hole golf course, Willow Camp.

Port Clements:  The first incorporated town on the Queen Charlotte Islands and the supply center for the Sitka Spruce logging for military aircraft during World War I. Visit Port Clements’s Museum for a look at pioneer life, and historical buildings allow visitors to temporarily step back in time. Also located here was the famous Golden Spruce, until an insane vandal cut the tree down in 1997.  

Tlell:  The home to the island arts community. The Tlell River is famous for its salmon fishing and sandy beaches.  Nearby is St. Mary’s Spring. Island legend says that if you drink from the spring, you will return to the islands in the future.

Festivals:  The Queen Charlotte Islands also play host to several major festivals in the area. These include:

  • Harbour Days in Masset (May long weekend)

  • Logger Days in Sandspit in late June and July

  • Canada Day in Port Clements is spread out over several days, including a ball tournament

  • Skidegate Days in late July

  • The Edge of the World Music Festival, celebrating its 11th anniversary this year, has become one of the most sought after performance stages for performers on the international scene. This is always held in the second week of July in Tlell

  • Tlell Fall Fair on B.C. Day weekend in August, traditionally British Columbia’s earliest fall fair.

  • The Coho Salmon Derby is held in late September around Sandspit, to coincide with the return of the Coho salmon to the area.

Deer in the Wild

 

Recreation:  On the Queen Charlottes, you can find world class salmon, halibut, and steelhead fishing in the numerous freshwater streams and abundant Pacific Ocean.  Salmon fishing is plentiful in the spring and summer months, as millions of fish pass through the area’s waters to feed and to journey back to the spawning streams. The fall season has the focus shift to the famous fly-fishing on the Tlell, Copper, and Takoun Rivers for Coho salmon. In winter, steelhead fishing challenges the avid fisherman with their agility and ability to slip past the nets and lines.

The numerous parks provide hiking opportunities throughout the islands, along the rocky coast and though the untouched countryside.

Four trails run through Naikoon Provincial Park, ranging from a couple of hours to several days. You can hike up the steep Sleeping Beauty trail up Mount Genevieve to look over Queen Charlotte City and admire the Newcombe's Daisy, a flower only found on the Islands. On Moresby, there are trails for the more experienced hikers, with day hikes to Sandy Cove, or the multi-day hike to the abandoned village of Cumshewa.

For ocean kayakers, the opportunities range from those suited to the beginner in the protected waters of Skidgate, Masset, or Juskatla inlet by Port Clements. The Islands are also famous for its more advanced waters, challenging even the most experienced paddler. The most popular trips begin in Sandspit and travel into the Federal Gwaii Haanas Park (please note- reservations must be made in advance to enter Gwaii Haanas. Check with the Federal Office in Sandspit).

Wilderness adventure opportunities abound, with camping in both maintained camps and former Forest Service campsites available on both Graham Island and Moresby Island. Naikoon Provincial Park offers two campsites, Agate Beach campground at the north, and Misty Meadows at the south.  Moresby Island offers several former Forest Services campsites as well as Gray Bay Campground near Sandspit.

The Queen Charlotte Islands is a diving paradise. Shore dives are possible from anywhere along the coastal road, and a small boat will give divers access to many great dive sites in relatively sheltered west coast conditions. Ask for information in Queen Charlotte about the best dive sites in Rennell Sound.

Crabbing along North Beach is available for most of the year. One of the best places to take your family crabbing is the Tow Hill region.  Some of the best dinners in the world can be found just meters from your campground, so make sure you take along a strong net and a bucket to put your crabs in!  

 

Boating at Masset

Beachcombing is excellent, with stories about the wonderful and sometimes wacky things found multiplying every year. While the most common find tends to be the glass floats used on Japanese fishing nets, recently passing freighters have caused things like hockey pads and Nike shoes to be washed up on shore. Along North Beach, treasures like sperm whale teeth, agate gemstones, sand dollars, and scallop and razor clam shells are taken home as souvenirs of a wonderful visit.

Biking is becoming extremely popular on the Islands, as more and more visitors are finding that the communities are located far enough for a good workout, but not so far to be completely exhausting. The traffic is extremely light, there aren’t too many hills, and biking provides you with the opportunity to immerse yourself in the breathtaking scenery at a slower pace.

Environment:  Having escaped the Ice Age, the Queen Charlottes offer a unique and diverse landscape, unlike anywhere else in North America.  Some of the largest trees in the world are located in the lush temperate coastal rainforests, including Sitka spruce, western hemlock, giant red cedar and yellow cypress.  

North Beach

 

Wildlife viewing is perfect throughout the island. The Islands also play host to hundreds of species, many of them endangered and not found outside the area, such as the world’s largest black bear. Deer abound in these islands and on an evening drive seeing 30 deer is a common occurrence.  The Islands are a bird watchers paradise- one quarter of Canada’s Pacific Coast population breed on these islands. Species to be found here include storm petrels, auklets, tuffed puffins, ancient murrelets, and peregrine falcons. In addition, Steller sea lions, grey whales, orcas, and seals cruise the coast during the late spring and summer.  Pristine sandy beaches stretch as far as the eye can see, and snow capped mountains soar in the distance.

Provincial and Federal Parks:

Much of the Queen Charlottes are protected with parkland.

The Gwaii Haanas is a large Federal Park located in the South Moresby region. There are no roads in this park and access is by boat and chartered floatplane only. Visitors must make reservations with the Gwaii Haanas park office, and undergo a mandatory orientation session.  The Gwaii Haanas is full of wildlife and plant life not found anywhere else- including the rest of the Queen Charlottes. In addition, Anthony Island, a UNESCO world cultural heritage site, is located within this park. This park was recently named the best National Park in North America by National Geographic Magazine.  Panelists were impressed with Gwaii Haanas' "high cultural integrity" and called it "A great model for other regions." To read the article, click here.  

Naikoon Provincial Park is located in the North Graham Island region. This is more accessible than Gwaii Haanas, with two provincial campgrounds that are open during the camping season. Naikoon offers multiple hiking trails that range from the easy hour trail to the multi-day, wilderness camping trails, crabbing opportunities, and the breathtaking ocean views on beautiful beaches that seem to go on forever. Rose Spit and the Tlell beach, in particular, is an excellent spot for observing migrating birds traveling south on the Pacific Flyway. Niho Land & Cattle Company Ltd. purchased several very rare private acreages located inside the pristine Naikoon Park over 20 years ago and is now developing some of this select parkland property into large residential oceanfront lots.

 

Golf Course at Masset

The Queen Charlotte Islands truly fit the description of Gwaii Haanas, the "islands of beauty" or "islands of wonder".

Bibliography

-          Guide to the Queen Charlotte Islands Haida Gwaii- Observer Publishing, 2004

-          http://www.bcadventure.com/adventure/explore/north/points_of_interest/norpoi8.htm

-          http://www.qcinfo.ca/

-          http://www.britishcolumbia.com/regions/towns/?townID=3661

 
       
 


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